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St. Croix
Tourist Information
Table of Contents
Port
City:
Frederiksted, St. Croix
Climate:
Subtropical, with average temperatures year-round in the 80s
Language:
English
Currency:
US Dollar
The
largest of the three principal islands comprising the U.S. Virgin
Islands, St. Croix's diversity is partly due to its size - 28
miles long and 7 miles wide. This tropical island is three times
the size of nearby St. Thomas, and its terrain is uniquely
diverse. A lush rain forest in the western mountains and
undulating hills in the interior are a marked contrast to the
spiny desert vegetation and dry, rocky red cliffs found on the
eastern end. Year-round temperatures average 82 degrees during
the day and 72 degrees at night; constant trade winds keep the
island cool and pleasant.
There is
an excellent published guide for this island called "St.
Croix This Week". The name is a little misleading as it is a
monthly publication. It is very well done (printed in Miami) and
is about 45 pages in length. The guide gives the schedule for the
entire months activities including cruise ship arrivals.
The guide
is full of useful information including maps of the island and
the two major cities. It also includes information on all the
attractions of the island, history, local advertisements and
reviews on many restaurants. If you send $2.00 to St Croix This
Week, P.O. Box 4477, Christiansted St Croix, US Virgin Islands
00822-447 they will send you a current copy.
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A
highlight of any visit to St. Croix is the Harbor Night block
party called "Jump Up".
The party is held in the streets
of historic downtown Christiansted several times a year. The official description of the
party is: "A lively street fair with vendors and
entertainment, from 6 to 11pm."
Admission
is free as are samples of the local entertainment. You can
purchase about any type of Caribbean food and drink that you can
imagine and of course souvenirs and local art are displayed for
all to see and purchase. You will have a wonderful evening under
the stars.
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St. Croix's
major points of interest are quite spread out, yet getting around
the island along the major roads is no problem at all. However,
if you're adventuresome and want to follow the scenic and less-well-maintained
gravel roads, you should consider renting a four-wheel-drive
vehicle.
Airlines
Several
major carriers serve the St. Croix airport (STX), some flying direct from the
mainland. In fact, many flights
that depart from St. Thomas bound for the United States stop at
St. Croix before flying on to the mainland. You can also find many major
carriers that fly to San Juan, Pueto Rico and then get an American Eagle or Cape
Air flight to St. Croix for about $160 U.S. round-trip. If you're
interested in island hopping, a number of carriers offer daily
commuter-type service to St. Thomas, Tortola, Virgin Gorda,
Puerto Rico and St. Maarten. Nine daily flights by seaplane between St. Thomas
and St. Croix are now offered by Seaborne Seaplane Adventures for approximately
$130 U.S. They can be reached at 340-773-6442 on
Mondays thru Saturdays from 6am - 5pm and on Sundays from 7am - 5pm. Charter service
is available at the airport, too.
Transportation Page.
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Car Rentals
If you
want to see the island at the slow, leisurely pace at which it is
best enjoyed, it pays to rent a car or a four-wheel-drive vehicle
for at least part of your stay. Your driver's license is valid
here for 90 days.
(Click
here for St. Croix car Rentals.)
The
biggest difficulty for American drivers in the Virgin Islands is
getting used to driving on the "wrong," or left, side
of the road in an American- or Japanese-made car, which has the
steering wheel on the left side. With this arrangement, it's more
difficult to gauge your vehicle's distance from the lane to your
right; by paying careful attention, however, you'll quickly pick
up the ability to do just that.
Most
rental agents will remind you to pass with care. In the States,
it's easy to nudge your car out of its lane and look around the
car in front of you. But driving an American- or Japanese-made
car in the left lane, you can't do that without getting into the
oncoming lane. There is no trick to solving this problem, so be
very cautious. The safest rule don't be in a hurry.
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Ferry
Service
Virgin
Islands Fast Ferry
- 340-719-0099 - Ferry Service runs during the peak winter months
between St. Croix and St. Thomas and usually begins in late November
and runs through May.
Email
Us
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Sightseeing
Tours
Since you're
on vacation, you might like to see the sights with the ease and
convenience afforded by a tour or your cruise ship's shore
excursion desk. Several operators feature an open-air safari bus;
a knowledgeable guide will fill you in on the island's history
and take you along the most scenic routes. Most of these
independent operators are located in Christiansted near the
waterfront. Both half- and full-day trips are available at a
reasonable cost.
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Taxis
Never in
short supply, taxis are un-metered and rates must be posted in all
vehicles. It's best to agree on a fare before leaving. The posted
per-person rates reflect the fare for more than one passenger
traveling to one destination; a solitary passenger has to pay
double that rate.
St. Croix Taxi Association,
Airport - 778-1088
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Christopher
Columbus came upon St. Croix on November 14, 1493, during his
second voyage to the Americas. He sent a crew ashore at St. Croix's
Salt River inlet in search of potable water; there followed a
brief confrontation with some of the island's Taino inhabitants,
resulting in deaths on both sides. The Great Admiral promptly
moved on to chart the numerous islands to the north, naming the
entire group including St. Croix the Virgin Islands, in honor of
the legendary virginal devotees of St. Ursula. He later
christened the island Santa Cruz, or "Holy Cross."
As the
Spaniards concentrated their early efforts in the Caribbean on
the Greater Antilles, St. Croix's native inhabitants may have
escaped the initial impact of the conquest. But in the early 1500s,
when the Spanish began to raid the island for slaves to work
their gold mines in more lucrative colonies, a renewed native
resistance served as the justification for the extermination of
the Caribbean's indigenous peoples. By the early 1600s, when the
island was permanently settled, the Tainos Columbus encountered
on St. Croix had utterly disappeared.
The Dutch
and English were among the first to establish themselves on St.
Croix; both powers had a presence on the island by 1625. The
Dutch shared their settlement with a handful of French Huguenots
from nearby St. Kitts. The two colonies coexisted without major
incident until 1645, when the island's Dutch governor killed his
English counterpart. A skirmish ensued between the two colonies
during which the Dutch governor was mortally wounded. The English
colonists extended a conciliatory invitation to his successor;
however, upon his arrival at the colony, the Dutch official was
arrested and publicly executed. The Dutch were forced to abandon
their colony and retire to St. Eustatius and St. Maarten, while
their French neighbors relocated to Guadeloupe. The English
solidified their claim on St. Croix and remained unchallenged for
the next four years.
In 1650,
the English settlement was overrun by 1,200 Spanish colonists
from Puerto Rico. Dutch forces from St. Eustatius tried
unsuccessfully to recapture St. Croix. Later that year, Philippe
de Lonvilliers Poincy, Governor of the French West Indies, claimed
possession of St. Croix in the name of the French Crown. DePoincy,
the leader of the Knights of Malta, then purchased the island
from the French king in 1651 and directed a group of his fellow
knights to colonize St. Croix. In 1653, he bestowed his private
holdings in the West Indies to the order and sent one Chevalier
de la Mothe to St. Croix with supplies. The unfortunate emissary
met with a rather ignoble fate as he was apprehended and shackled
by some 200 rebellious French colonists, who made off with his
ship.
Two years
later, a new governor was sent to restore order to the colony.
The knights, however, unaccustomed to the rigors of managing
plantations, failed to establish a viable economy on St. Croix.
In 1665, the French West India Company bought all the islands
owned by the Knights of Malta, and in 1674, the French king paid
the company's debts, assuming ownership of all its holdings.
Unable to turn the colony around, the king ordered its residents
to relocate to Santo Domingo. Although still a French possession,
St. Croix was abandoned save for a few squatters until well into
the next century.
The Danish
West India and Guinea Company bought the island from the French
in 1733. Attracted by cheap land, planters, mostly English,
flocked to St. Croix from neighboring islands. But the company's
impending bankruptcy prompted the settlers to petition the Danish
king for aid, and the island was made a Crown Colony in 1755. The
Danish influence, more lasting than that of any other European
power, is particularly evident today in the gingerbread
architecture of Christiansted and Frederiksted.
During the
second half of the 18th century, the island enjoyed a period of
enormous economic prosperity based on the cultivation of sugar,
the production of rum, and the slave trade. The Danish West
Indies served as a central slave marketplace in the region, and
despite the protestations of the Danish Crown, St. Croix's
planters relied heavily on slave labor. The Danish government
declared slavery illegal in 1792 but assisted planters in
acquiring slaves during a "transition" period; the
slave trade was abolished in 1803. However, St. Croix's slaves
would not achieve independence until July 3, 1848, when Governor-General
Peter von Scholten roused from his bed in the wee hours of the
morning by the news of a slave insurrection ordered their
immediate emancipation.
The
British recaptured St. Croix in 1807 and held the island during
the Napoleonic Wars much to the relief of St. Croix's English
planters, who had been chafing under trade restrictions imposed
by the Danish Crown. But the island reverted to Denmark in 1815,
and the next 30 years brought drought and widespread economic
depression.
During the second half of the 19th century, St. Croix suffered a
series of natural disasters including a fire in Christiansted, an
earthquake and tidal wave and two hurricanes that exacerbated the
colony's woes. The economy did not fully recover until the middle
of this century.
In 1917,
the United States purchased St. Croix, St. John and St. Thomas
from the Danish government to prevent their becoming a German
submarine base during World War I. St. Croix first fell under the
jurisdiction of the U.S. Navy and was later granted Territorial
status. A period of uneven economic recovery continued until the
1950s, when tourists began to discover the island. Since then,
the industry and the island has seen steady growth.
Today, the
U.S. Virgin Islands is an unincorporated Territory with a non-voting
delegate to the U.S. House of Representatives. Although all
persons born here are U.S. citizens and taxpayers, they have no
vote in national elections. Islanders were granted the vote in
local elections in 1936 and chose their first governor in 1970.
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Sightseeing
St. Croix
is large and its sights are rather spread out, so if you are not
taking an organized tour or shore excursion, it pays to rent a
car or taxi for at least part of your stay. Bicycles are not a
great idea, because the island is hilly and the roads have no
shoulders. Four-wheel-drive vehicles are better for visiting the
out-of-the-way scenic regions, since many are reached only by
dirt roads. A word of caution: not all roads are clearly marked,
particularly at the intersections. Though the American system of
numbered route signs is used, the signs appear with less
frequency than drivers are used to in the U.S. And there are
fewer signs showing the names of the places you've either reached
or are heading toward than you would expect.
The island's
most prominent landmarks are the sugar-mill ruins, reminding
visitors of the time when sugar cane was "king" and the
island was divided into hundreds of plantations. Homes, resort
swimming pools and hotels have been built around many of these
ruins, which are valued symbols of St. Croix's rich history.
Other reminders of the island's past are the fanciful names used
to identify St. Croix locations. Jealousy, Wheel of Fortune and
Lower Love are all plantation names dating from the 1760s, when
land was divided into low-priced 150-acre tracts used by the
Danes to attract settlers.
St. Croix
has been ruled by seven nations, all of which left their marks on
the island. Though it is currently an American territory
seemingly reminiscent of the United States with its shopping
centers and fast-food restaurants, St. Croix has preserved its
West Indian cultural heritage, attitudes and identity. Families
who have resided here for 10 generations are still influential,
their roots stretching back to the colonial era. It is worth your
while to make an effort to meet some Crucians because their
stories and family histories will immeasurably enrich your stay
on the island.
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Christiansted
The
picturesque harbor town of Christiansted attained its present
state by the late 1700s, when St. Croix was a crown colony of
Denmark and the city was one of the Caribbean's major ports. The
U.S. National Park Service maintains the neoclassical-style
buildings as they appeared in the 1830s through the 1850s, the
period following the peak of prosperity for the island's sugar,
cotton, rum and slave trades. Many street signs are still in
Danish.
Christiansted
was one of the first Caribbean towns to adopt a building code.
The 1747 measure regulated street width and block size, created
zoned areas and, perhaps most important, provided that buildings
must be fashioned of fire-resistant materials. Christiansted,
therefore, never suffered a devastating conflagration, as did
Frederiksted, and its architecture accurately portrays what this
island port was once like.
The
buildings generally fall into one of four categories. Most
prominent are the public buildings, such as churches and
government offices. Two- and three-story masonry townhouses were
constructed for planters, who needed a presence in the island's
center of power. Merchants lived in structures with ground floors
of limestone brick, where they tended shop, topped by wooden
shacks, where they lived. The workers lived in one-story wooden
shacks on the outskirts of town.
The
imposing mustard-yellow Fort Christiansvaern, finished in 1749,
is a good example of 17th- and 18th-century Danish military
architecture. As you walk out of the fort, you'll pass the
graceful two-story Old Danish Customs House, which is the
headquarters for the National Park Service. Across King Street,
you'll find the Old Scale House, adjacent to the wharf. Built in
1855-56, the Scale House was formerly used to weigh and inspect
imports and exports for tax purposes. Now it is the city's post
office, but the old scales still stand.
Across the
parking lot from the Scale House is the rambling Old Danish West
India and Guinea Company Warehouse, currently the location of a
bank and several shops and restaurants. It was once the central
offices of the Danish trading company that both owned St. Croix
and monopolized its trade even though the island's British
planters outnumbered the Danes five to one.
The nearby
Steeple Building was St. Croix's first church, erected in 1750-53;
the steeple was added in the 1790s. It still has the original
marble floors, and contains a small museum with an exhibit
detailing the island's history.
Traveling
up King Street, you'll approach the stately Government House,
with its long outside staircase and spacious ballroom. The Danish
government is helping to restore the structure to its original
elegance. Don't miss the shaded courtyard: its giant shade trees
and flowing fountain provide a respite from sightseeing or
shopping.
The
facades only hint at the many splendid courtyards and arcades
found throughout town, many of which house shops and restaurants.
Don't resist the temptation to explore inside.
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The East
End (Caribbean
Dream is located here)
St. Croix's
eastern end has some of the island's prettiest vistas, a perfect
place for a leisurely drive. You'll encounter a landscape dotted
with cacti similar to the American Southwest, an interesting
contrast to the island's lush western regions.
If you
want to see East End's many features rugged cliffs, ocean vistas
and interior farmland begin your driving tour by taking Route 82
(East End Road) out of Christiansted and circle back along Route
60 (South Shore Road).
As you
depart Christiansted from Hospital Street, which turns into Route
82, you'll soon pass The Buccaneer. Its resort facilities are not
open to the public, but a cocktail at sunset at the Terrace Bar
in the main building is one of St. Croix's unforgettable
experiences.
Shortly,
you'll see the signs for Green Cay Marina, home to an assemblage
of luxurious sailing yachts and a good place to arrange charter,
diving and snorkeling excursions. The marina is named after the
small island just offshore, a refuge for the endangered St. Croix
ground lizard. Just past the marina entrance, there is a turnoff
to one of the island's finest resorts, the Chenay Bay Beach
Resort.
Another
few miles ahead, a small bay opens up before you, where you'll
find the St. Croix Yacht Club, a popular mooring for sailboats.
Across from the club, perched atop the cliffs, is an immense
mansion the locals refer to as The Castle. Built by a flamboyant
jet-setter known as the Contessa, the building is a melange of
architectural flourishes reminiscent of the Taj Mahal.
Farther on
is an intersection where Route 82 continues straight and Route 60
veers off to the right. If you go straight for about two miles,
you'll come to Point Udall, the easternmost point in U.S.
territory and the most secluded spot on the island. Before the
paved road ends, there's a beach and a tidal pool area perfect
for exploring (see the "Ecotourism on St. Croix"
section for a self- guided tour). Once you arrive at the end of
the road, you'll be treated to a spectacular view of the rocky
coast and Buck Island off in the distance.
Back at
the intersection, after you get on Route 60, you'll pass some of
the island's most picturesque views, including one of Grapetree
Bay. Continuing on, you'll see the Great Salt Pond, a mecca for
birds and bird watchers. On a typical walk, you probably will
spot brown pelicans, herons, great egrets, black-necked stilts
and many other species.
As you
turn onto Route 624 and then Route 62 to head back to
Christiansted, you'll be traveling through some of the richest
farmland in the Caribbean. And don't be shocked to see red-hued
cows; they are a special breed that is found only on St. Croix.
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The North
Shore (Villa
Dawn and Caribbean Breeze is located here)
In
contrast to the expanse of the long east end, the North Shore is
much more compact. As you traverse the roads that hug tawny
cliffs overlooking the glistening Caribbean and hear the wind
underneath canopies of shade trees, the North Shore seems the
most peaceful section of the island.
Follow
Route 75 north out of Christiansted to the hotels and beach clubs
of Little Princesse, capped by St. Croix by the Sea, another of
the island's fine resorts. A right turn, following Route 75 to
its end, will take you to Judith's Fancy, where you'll find the
ruins of a sugar mill.
As you
descend Morningstar Hill, take the first right, onto Route 80.
Look for the sign "Tradewinds at Morningstar," which
marks the intersection. As you follow the signs for Salt River
Marina and continue past it about a mile, you'll see a marker on
the left denoting the spot where Christopher Columbus purportedly
landed in 1493.
Although
Columbus himself did not actually disembark while anchored in the
Salt River Bay, he did send a boat ashore in search of fresh
water. Salt River is one of only two sites in what is now U.S.
territory associated with Columbus and the only one confirmed by
documented evidence. Moreover, it was the site of the first fatal
confrontation between the European invaders and the natives of
the New World. Numerous Taino artifacts have been excavated from
the site. Already a National Historic Landmark and a National
Natural Landmark, the Salt River area was designated a National
Park in 1992. (See the "Ecotourism" section below.)
When you
get back on Route 80, continue north. The road climbs along
stunningly beautiful cliffs; on a very clear day, you can see St.
Thomas and St. John on the northern horizon. North Shore Drive
passes by Rust-Op-Twist, the ruins of a sugar plantation. The
name is Danish for "Rest-After-Work."
Several
miles ahead, you'll pass through part of St. Croix's unusual rain
forest, which has the densest tropical vegetation on the island.
Two miles ahead is the renowned Carambola Beach Resort & Golf
Club.
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The West
End and Frederiksted
Westenders
often greet visitors from other parts of St. Croix by asking,
"What brings you to the nice side of the island?" While
not exactly fair to the rest of St. Croix, the greeting
nevertheless has more than a germ of truth to it. This least-developed
part of St. Croix enjoys a more casual lifestyle, although there
is no less to see than in the east.
Frederiksted
is the logical starting point for a west-end tour. Stop off at
the Visitors Center at the Pier to get started and continue out
on the Pier for a good panoramic view of the town's old historic
district and Strand Gade, or Strand Street. This waterfront
shopping area is noted for its arcaded buildings and interesting
historical structures. The town, in the midst of restoration
under a government "Main Street" program, is constantly
evolving and improving.
The St.
Croix Aquarium, located just across the street from the
Frederiksted Pier, houses hundreds of creatures from local waters.
This marine education center provides an excellent opportunity to
learn about marine biology, reef conservation and island culture.
Frederiksted's
architecture is different from Christiansted's because the town
was partially burned during an uprising called Fireburn in 1878.
When it was rebuilt, many structures had the gingerbread trim
characteristic of late Victorian architecture, including the
Victoria House, at the corner of Strand and Market streets, which
may still be closed for renovation to be turned into a museum.
Fort Frederik, constructed between 1752 and 1760 and located at the
north end of town, is a grand example of Danish military
architecture. Two notable events occurred there: in 1776, it was
the first foreign fort to salute the United States flag; and in
July 1848, Governor General Peter von Scholten signed the
proclamation that emancipated the slaves in the Danish West
Indies.
Continue
down Strand Street along the waterfront for two blocks and you'll
come to the Old Frederiksted Public Library, also called the
bellhouse after a previous owner named G.A. Bell, who decorated
the stairs with bells. The building is now an arts and crafts
center.
Nearby is
the 18th-century Market Place, an open-air bazaar existing from
the time Frederiksted was founded, where you can purchase
tropical fruits. While here, don't miss the striking sunset views
from one of the town's waterfront cafes.
Two miles
east of town on St. Croix's oldest thoroughfare, Queen Mary
Highway, also known as Centerline Road, stands the Estate Whim
Plantation Museum. Guided tours of this National Historic Site
explain the workings of an 18th-century sugar cane plantation and
provide an interesting introduction to the island's history and
landscape. Amid shady thibet, mahogany and 150-year-old tamarind
trees stand a windmill, a chimney and a sugar factory. Surrounded
by a three-foot moat of stone and coral, the stately French-influenced
great house has been fully restored by the Landmark Society and
has imported and Crucian antiques on display.
Just up
the road is the St. George Village Botanical Garden, a lush,
peaceful oasis with more than 300 species of tropical flora.
Built amid sugar-mill ruins, the garden is among St. Croix's most
photogenic sights. Check local papers to find out about the
special events, such as jazz concerts, that are frequently held
there.
Backtrack
down Queen Mary Highway to Route 64 and the Cruzan Rum Distillery,
the manufacturer of one the finest rums in the world. Rum has
long been a major export, and the island's economy suffered
greatly during Prohibition.
North of
Frederiksted, the dramatic coastline along Route 63 provides many
turn-offs to shady beaches ideal for a quiet picnic along the sea.
If you're in the mood for a livelier time, stop at any of the
beach shacks lining the road where food and drinks are doled out
in generous portions. These beaches offer the best swimming on
the west side, particularly the one opposite Sprat Hall
Plantation, a charming great house that is now an elegant inn and
restaurant serving dinner.
Creque (pronounced
"creaky") Dam Road (Route 58), by Sprat Hall Plantation,
will take you into the heart of St. Croix's rain forest. Creque
Dam itself is a 45-foot-high structure ringed by towering kapok
and sandbox trees covered with Spanish moss. Creque Dam Road then
connects with Scenic Road (Route 78), which is just that.
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Sports
St. Croix
is endowed with natural features that make it a water-sports
enthusiast's paradise. Spectacular scenery enhances the enjoyment
of land sports such as golf and tennis. And mild tropical
temperatures make it possible to participate in sports year-round.
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Water
Sports
Deep-Sea
Fishing
Charter
boats leave from the wharf in Christiansted, Green Cay Marina in
Christiansted and St. Croix Marina in Gallows Bay on half-day,
short-day (approximately six hours) and full-day excursions to
the prime fishing ground of Lang Bank. What makes this a great
place to fish other than the abundance of blue marlin and other
game fish is the fact that boats don't have to spend much time
running, as the drop-off of Lang Bank is only a short distance
offshore. This means more time to fish.
Billfish
are plentiful in summer, while winter brings wahoo and dolphin to
local waters. Tuna run in the spring.
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Diving
& Snorkeling
As is the
case with many of St. Croix's other attributes, people are only
slowly discovering the fantastic range of diving opportunities
here. The reefs surrounding the island offer both easy beginners'
dives and enough challenges to hold the interest of the most
seasoned divers for weeks. In a Top
100 poll
taken in Rodale's Scuba Diving Magazine readers rated St. Croix
#4
overall for "Best overall destination, best visibility
and value in the Caribbean, and the world's most popular destination"
and # 2 for
"
best shore diving"! US Virgin Islands placed
#2 for "best
snorkeling"!
For the
novice, one of the best introductory dives anywhere is the
Frederiksted Pier. Skillful divers find it entertaining too,
particularly for its night diving. The pier's substantial pilings
are covered with brilliant red and yellow sponges, and sea horses,
octopus, batfish, Atlantic oval squid, puffer fish and lizard fish
are in abundance.
Just north
of Frederiksted is one of the most impressive wreck dives in St.
Croix. The Rosamaria is one of three wrecked ships that form an
artificial reef off Butler Bay. This 177-foot steel-hulled
freighter is en-crusted with pink and red sponges that have
attracted a good number of fish, including yellowtail and horse-eyed
jacks.
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Cane Bay, on northern St.
Croix, attracts divers and snorkelers alike.
Easily
accessible from Villa Dawn and
just 8 minutes from Caribbean
Breeze the site offers
outstanding wall dives beginning in only 35 to 40 feet of water.
Antler, purple tube and orange elephant ear sponges are common;
boulder corals dominate the spurs and grooves of the shallows,
giving way to vertical drops where schools of spade fish and
eagle rays thrive. Northstar Wall has an immense Danish anchor
embedded in the coral at a depth of 60 feet. Dolphins and turtles
occasionally make an appearance in the area. Nearby Davis Bay
also offers great snorkeling from the beach.
The Salt
River region has what many consider to be the island's finest
diving. Its east wall features a sharp 100-foot drop marked by
canyons and caves cut into the wall's face, and large schools of
fish are a frequent sight.
Snorkelers
can explore the coral gardens around Green Cay, a tiny offshore
island just east of Christiansted. Although it is accessible only
by boat, the cay is close enough to reach in a small craft like a
kayak or even a sailboard.
Hotel on
the Cay, a private island located just a short ferry ride from
downtown Christiansted, has a large designated snorkeling area
just off its sandy beach. Its focal point is a mini marine
habitat in less than three feet of water, perfect for beginners,
non-swimmers and kids. Schools of tropical fish gather around an
old engine block and peek out from "recycled" conch
shells, and small eels, shrimp and a variety of other creatures
abound. Nearby is a 15-foot drop off, where the bottom is
peppered with coral formations; schools of jacks, needlefish,
tangs and many other species can be seen, and eagle rays, squid,
octopus and other exotic creatures have been known to make an
appearance from time to time. You can rent snorkel gear from the
St. Croix Water Sports Center. You can also borrow a "glass-bottom
bucket" to enjoy the view.
Just off
the northeastern coast, Buck Island's underwater trail, (Caribbean Dream has a
spectacular view of this) which is
restricted to snorkelers, is St. Croix's most popular tourist
destination. And getting there is half the fun the vessels
leaving from Christiansted and the north shore include motorized
boats (some glass-bottom), graceful sloops and speedy trimarans.
Excursions are either for half or full days; full-day trips
include a beach party on shore as well as snorkeling. (See the
"Ecotourism" section below.)
Visitors
who are not certified to dive, or those who wish to upgrade their
certificates, will find a variety of sanctioned courses available
throughout St. Croix at competitive prices. If you have never
dived before, you can enroll in an inexpensive resort course that
allows you to make shallow reef dives after just a few hours of
training. In addition, divers can rent or purchase virtually any
piece of dive equipment they desire: numerous dive shops carry a
wide selection of brand-name goods. Fully qualified personnel are
also available to attend to equipment repairs.
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Parasailing
& Windsurfing
At first
glance, parasailing seems to be exclusively the province of
daredevils. Not so - parasailing is safe even though you are
hundreds of feet in the air. Don't miss the opportunity to see
the island from this unique perspective!
St. Croix
is regarded by experienced windsurfers as one of the top
locations in the world to practice the sport. The same features
that attract the experts - the steady 10-to-20-knot winds out of
the east, beautiful scenery and the combination of glassy-smooth,
sheltered water and churning waves - make St. Croix an ideal
place to learn and develop windsurfing skills.
Experts
should try windsurfing at Salt River, where the winds are the
strongest on the island and the surf is at its highest. At Duggan's
Reef, at the island's east end, conditions are also suitable for
windsurfing. And the calm waters off Hotel on the Cay, sheltered
by Long Reef, are perfect for novices and experts alike. Lessons
and equipment rentals are available.
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Sailing
& Chartering
The U.S.
and British Virgin Islands are a "cruising crossroads."
The trade winds are continual, the seas are generally calm, and
the mountainous terrain provides for excellent line-of-sight
navigation which explains why the Virgin Islands are often cited
as having the world's best sailing.
You can
arrange excursions at the wharf in Christiansted, at Green Cay
Marina and at St. Croix Marina. Smaller boats such as Sunfish and
Hobie Cats can be rented on the beach at the major resorts. The
St. Croix Water Sports Center rents kayaks, Sea Doos and Wave
Runners.
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Land
Sports
Golf
For those who prefer to stay on
land, try a round of golf at:
Carambola
Golf Club (809-778-5638). Here you'll find one of the best golf
courses on St. Croix and perhaps in the entire Caribbean. Nestled
in the lush interior hills of northern St. Croix, the course is
set amid palms, bougainvillea and hibiscus. As designed by the
famed architect Robert Trent Jones, the 6,856-yard, par 72 course
features many challenging uphill and over-water shots,
particularly on the tricky par 3 holes. Tee times are generally
easy to get, but you must make reservations one day in advance.
Lessons, equipment rentals, practice facilities and a pro shop
are all available on the premises. (just a 15 minute drive from
Villa
Dawn and only 20 minutes from
Caribbean Breeze)
The
Buccaneer Golf Course (809-773-2100) is another first-rate course,
as well as being a good test of your shot-making skill. It is a
hilly 6,268-yard, par 71 course dramatically situated by the
ocean. The course, pro-shop and practice facilities are open to
the public by reservation. (just a 10 minute drive from
Caribbean
Dream)
The Reef
Golf Course (809-773-8844) is a fun 9-hole course that also
offers panoramic ocean vistas of Buck Island. It's located on the
east end of the island by Duggan's Reef. (also a 10 minute drive from
Caribbean
Dream)
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Tennis
The best
courts on St. Croix are at private clubs, which require
reservations and a modest fee. The Buccaneer has eight
championship Laykold courts open to the public, along with a well-equipped
pro shop and an experienced pro who gives lessons. Two courts are
lighted for night play.
Private
courts are also available at Gentle Winds Resort (Caribbean
Breeze is located here), Chenay Bay, Colony Cove, Mill Harbour, Sugar Beach, Hotel on the Cay, Club St. Croix and The
Reef.
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Side Trips
St. Croix
is attracting people who come primarily to appreciate the natural
splendor of the island. This section focuses on a few of the
island's natural wonders: Buck Island, Butler Bay, The St. Croix
Aquarium and Marine Education Center, and the St. George Village
Botanical Garden.
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Buck Island
Reef National Monument
President
John F. Kennedy, apparently moved by the beauty of Buck Island's
reefs during a 1963 visit, had the island and its surrounding
waters declared a National Monument. Numerous tour operators
around the island offer trips of varying length to the 800-acre
nature preserve, located one mile off St. Croix's northeastern
shore.
Buck
Island's primary draw is spectacular snorkeling in clear, shallow
waters. At a depth of only 15 feet, you can observe massive
elkhorn corals, brain corals and other marine life that flourish
along the park's well-marked underwater trail. And more
experienced snorkelers will enjoy exploring the deeper outer reef.
After a
visit to the extraordinary underwater trail, most tour operators
usually anchor at the island's white-sand beach, a worthwhile
attraction in itself. There's also a 45-minute hiking trail that
leads into the interior of the island, which is carpeted with
tropical vegetation. The observation tower at the end of the
trail provides a fabulous view of St. Croix and the reefs around
Buck Island.
The island's
facilities include picnic tables, grills, a pavilion, a changing
house and rest rooms. Most tour operators provide snorkeling
equipment.
Butler Bay Nature Preserve
The Butler
Bay Nature Preserve comprises 225 protected acres replete with
indigenous plant and animal life. A bridge made with hand-cut
Danish stone over 150 years old still stands on the property, and
hand-dug wells have been discovered here. A 60-foot waterfall
cascades in the middle of this rain forest. The preserve has
horseback riding trails, and there are plans to develop new
trails for both riding and hiking within the refuge.
The St.
Croix Aquarium and Marine Education Center Opened in 1990, The St.
Croix Aquarium and Marine Education Center practices and teaches
eco-sensitive measures. Every day, marine biologist and owner
Lonnie Kaczmarksy dives to catch fresh food for the marine
creatures at the St. Croix Aquarium. Kaczmarksy also believes in
"recycling" the aquarium's sea life; once an exhibit
has "performed," its often-times hand-collected
creatures are returned to the sea and are replaced with a new
exhibit. With this constant rotation, hundreds of species pass
through the aquarium's tanks each year. In addition to several
viewing tanks, there's also a touch pond with starfish, sea
cucumbers, pencil urchins, several varieties of fish, colorful
coral and much more. Kaczmarsky's intention is to familiarize
beginner snorkelers and divers with the underwater world and to
educate them on the effects of damaging or threatening the
ecosystem in any way.
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St. George
Village Botanical Garden
This
beautiful 16-acre expanse showcases over 800 various species of
exotic plants, all varying in shape, size, color and texture. The
walking tour an experience you won't want to miss takes you
through a Crucian rainforest, the ruins of a sugar mill and rum
factory, and a cactus and succulent garden.
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Self-Guided
Hikes
If you
wish to explore St. Croix on your own, the following hikes are
recommended for their solitude and beauty. Note that these trails
are not manicured or marked, so you'll feel as close to nature as
the island's original inhabitants. However, because the areas are
isolated, it's wise to take along a companion.
Isaac's
Bay is a two-mile hike. To reach this spot, follow East End Road
(Route 82) past Cramer's Park; the road turns into a gravel path,
which you follow until you reach a dead-end on the hilltop
overlooking Point Udall. You can park here be sure to leave no
valuables in your vehicle.
If you
look over the railing, you will notice a faint track that leads
down the barren volcanic hillside to the water. At the bottom,
you can sit and watch waves roll in, crashing against the rocks.
Follow the shoreline heading west until you come to an open field
filled with cactus. Wind through this arid field and you will end
up at East End Bay, where you can explore the beach and search
for shells. You can follow the beach, heading up and over a small
mound, back down to Isaac's Bay. This is where you might want to
spread a blanket and have a bite to eat. If you're a snorkeler,
bring your gear along; these shallow, protected waters have lots
of colorful fish and coral.
A slightly
shorter but just as exciting hike is at Annaly Bay; this is a 11
2-mile trek. Take Scenic Road (Route 78) west, approximately five
miles past Carambola. Take the turn-off heading up and to the
right. Immediately thereafter, you'll see another dirt road
heading back down the hill; turn right. You will be fairly close
to the water. Park at the top of the hill and hike down the
incline to Annaly Bay. Once there, you can enjoy the warm wading
pools and explore the deserted beach. At the northwest end of the
beach are some cliffs that are virtually perpendicular with the
ocean. This area is called Marron Hole, named after a community
of exiled slaves who lived there in the mid-1770s.
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Beaches
The lure
of St. Croix's sun-drenched beaches is virtually impossible to
resist; they have been ranked among the most beautiful in the
world. Picture crescent moons of sugar-white sand rimming
secluded coves, lush tropical scenery and the sun reflecting
diamond sparks on crystal-clear aquamarine waters that about sums
up what you'll find on this island paradise. Click
here
for more beach information.
In &
Around Christiansted
A short
ferry ride from downtown Christiansted will bring you to the
Hotel on the Cay, which offers a lovely beach with an adjoining
restaurant and bar; a complete water-sports center; and a
wonderful view of the harborside wharfs. To the west of the city,
there's a great 1,000-foot stretch of beach, as well as
facilities for a number of water sports, at Estate Golden Rock,
where Club St. Croix is located. The Buccaneer, a five-minute
ride to the east of Christiansted on Route 82, features luxurious
beach facilities, tropical drinks, food and shade. Non-guests are
charged admission; rafts and beach chairs can be rented.
Nearby
Shoy Beach has palm trees along the shore and waves that are
perfect for body surfing if the wind is right. To find it, go
through the Buccaneer Hotel entrance, turn right along the golf
course and travel the dirt road at the fork until you see the
sign for Buccaneer Estates. Park there and follow the overgrown
path to the beach.
Teague Bay
and the Reef Beach entrance opposite the Reef Condominiums.
Everything you'd want from a beach is here no wonder it's favored
by both residents and visitors. Swim or sun at the long stretch
of beach, or sip a cool drink on the restaurant deck while you
watch the windsurfers. (just a 10 minute
drive from Caribbean Dream)
A turn
onto Route 60 will take you to Grapetree Beach. It boasts shade,
a splendid stretch of sand, and calm, protected waters. Should
you tire of just plain swimming, snorkel gear and sailboard
rentals are available at this hotel beach, and you'll also find a
bar, a restaurant and rest rooms.
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West of
Christiansted
Heading
west and then north of Christiansted on Route 75 will bring you
to the Little Princesse region. Here you'll see a long stretch of
white-sand beaches dotted by beach resorts, the largest of which
is St. Croix by the Sea.
Traveling
farther west on Route 75 and turning north on Route 80, you'll
arrive at Salt River Bay, where Columbus anchored in 1493 and
which has recently been designated a National Park (see the
"Ecotourism" section below). There is a nice
sequestered beach without facilities, and a nearby marker
commemorating Columbus' visit. Frequently, you'll see windsurfers
negotiating the challenging wind and waves.
Farther
down the North Shore Road (Route 80), you'll come to the locally
popular Cane Bay Beach (this is where
Villa Dawn is located and is only 8
minutes from
Caribbean Breeze). Here you can watch the waves roll in
over the spectacular reef or spy a sea turtle. Neighboring Davis
Bay Beach meets most people's preconception of what a Caribbean
beach should look like, so much so that the final scene of the
movie Trading Places was filmed here. The dense rain forest forms
a backdrop for the winding shoreline, making this one of St.
Croix's most picturesque spots. These two strands are
particularly special because some of the island's best snorkeling
is just 100 feet offshore. Davis Bay Beach is part of the
Carambola resort complex but is accessible to the public.
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In &
Around Frederiksted
You can
also find several fine beaches on the west shore north of
Frederiksted. If you drive along Route 63, you'll arrive at
several beach shacks and grills. You'll enjoy the calm waters and
sugar-white sand at Rainbow Beach. It's been touted as one of the
island's best snorkeling spots. The nearby beach bar provides a
cool haven for sipping a refreshing drink. The stretch in front
of La Grange Beach and Tennis Club and Sprat Hall Beach, across
from the Sprat Hall Plantation, are similar to Rainbow Beach:
both have gorgeous sandy shores with full facilities, bars that
pour inexpensive, oversized drinks and grills that serve tasty
burgers and sandwiches.
Another
spot for those who like privacy is Sandy Point, a pristine area
with tranquil waters and miles of white sand. Located at the
southwestern tip of the island, it is a nesting ground for the
endangered leatherback and green sea turtles. If you are lucky,
you may get to see them. The beach is protected by local
environmentalists during the early April to early June nesting
season to guard the eggs. To get there, take Melvin Evans Highway
to its western end and follow the dirt road; there are several
places to turn off.
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Art
An artist
is born every minute in the Caribbean; since pre-colonial times,
these islands have produced many dreamers. St. Croix has
consistently worked its magic in this respect by producing some
remarkable "born-here" artists and, over the years, by
becoming home to an astounding number of artists from all over
the world. That strong artistic presence is what gives St. Croix
its particular character as the "art-full" Virgin
Island, boasting an average 40 local artists whose works can be
viewed throughout the year. The diverse and often transient
nature of St. Croix's artistic community keeps originality of
style as much a certainty as the tropical charm that continually
attracts new dreamers to these shores.
Major
artistic events are usually scheduled throughout the winter
season. However, the vibrant artistic life on St. Croix makes art
shows an all-year enjoyment. Art exhibitions on the island can be
seen at places as varied as the grounds of a historic great house,
an artist's studio, fund-raising events, public fairs, street
festivals, the Botanical Garden or inside a 15th-century fort and,
more predictably, at a few commercial galleries in Christiansted
and Frederiksted. You'll be treated to exciting creations by
newcomer artists as well as long time-residents and native
Crucians. There are also offerings from artists who have gone but
still keep in touch through their colorful imagery.
The
majority of these artistic activities takes place in the town of
Frederiksted and its surroundings. Frederiksted is known for
having preserved its attributes as an artist's colony. The only
traditional gallery, in both size and artistic representation, is
located in one of Frederiksted's oldest houses, dating back to
the early 1880s. The Frederiksted Gallery features fine arts
selections from St. Croix's noted artists, as well as cultural
activities, such as court-yard poetry readings.
Fort Frederik, located in the Frederiksted harbor, houses an art
gallery and many display rooms offering a variety of
presentations all year long.
The crafts
are heavily represented in late November at Starving Artist Day
held yearly at the Whim Plantation, where many artisans can be
seen at work. In addition, currently on display at the plantation
is a new line of furniture called The West Indies Collection,
inspired by 18th- and early 19th-century colonial pieces found at
this restored plantation house.
Art In The
Garden in March showcases the work of art students from painting
sessions that were held at the Botanical Garden. In the town of
Christiansted, the Gilliam-King Gallery, owned by a painter and a
sculptor, features their respective works. And La Petite Galerie,
also in Christiansted, specializes in Caribbean-inspired glass
and metal sculpture.
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Ecotourism
Within
recent years, St. Croix has become more environmentally conscious
and sensitive, joining the rest of the world in an effort to
protect and preserve the earth as well as encouraging a back-to-nature
approach to tourism.
There is a
growing desire here to protect the coral reefs and marine life
that border the island's shores, the soil that covers the land,
and the air that's breathed by all. Many projects now exist for
environmental causes, and several associations have formed,
including the St. Croix Environmental Association (S.E.A.).
The S.E.A.
is a non-profit organization that was established in 1986. The
primary purpose of the organization was originally to protect
certain land sites from development. The campaign to save the
Salt River site, an ecological and historic jewel, has been one
of the S.E.A.'s greatest successes to date. Since then, the
mission of the S.E.A. has been to educate and create an overall
environmental awareness on the island.
The Salt
River area now the Salt River Bay National Historical Park and
Ecological Preserve contains the single largest mangrove
estuarine system left in the Virgin Islands. The mangroves and
the bay's seagrass beds provide a very important wildlife habitat,
hosting 27 endangered or threatened species and providing a
breeding and feeding ground for fish and invertebrate populations.
The submarine canyon at the mouth of the bay one of just a
handful in the world is home to deep-water corals and rare
geological features including caverns, grottoes and ledges. This
unique submarine environment has made Salt River a scuba diver's
paradise.
In
addition to its ecological importance, the Salt River basin is
also one of the most significant archaeological sites in the
Virgin Islands. Archaeologists unearthed the only Taino
ceremonial ball court in the Lesser Antilles here; along with
many associated artifacts, the ball court indicates that the area
was an important Taino cultural center. A ceremonial burial
ground dating back to A.D. 350 was also discovered. And Salt
River Bay provided Columbus' first anchorage in what is now U.S.
territory. Hence, the site has been the focus of every
archaeological investigation held on St. Croix since 1880.
In
addition to Salt River, the S.E.A. has continuously worked to
protect other fragile lands by advocating thoughtful and
environmentally sound development. And the association's programs
have had a far-reaching effect on the island.
The S.E.A.'s
VI ReLeaf reforestation program, started in 1989 after Hurricane
Hugo, is dedicated to planting new trees and teaching their
ecological importance. Trees are given to schools, churches and
communities as gifts, and children are taught to plant and care
for them. The S.E.A.'s Environmental Quality Action Team (EQAT)
monitors the waters around the island, keeping them clean and
safe for humans and wildlife alike. EQAT ensures that St. Croix
is in compliance with local and federal environmental laws
governing quality standards. The program was recognized by the U.S.
Environmental Protection Agency in 1994 with an award.
The S.E.A.
was the first organization to teach Crucians about the need to
recycle; while this effort is now overseen by the Antilitter and
Beautification Commission, the S.E.A continues its educational
efforts, and still coordinates island clean-ups from time to time.
While everyone enjoys the benefits of the S.E.A.'s many programs,
its guided eco-walks and hikes are especially appealing to
visitors and appropriate for all age groups. Each tour is of
varying difficulty. The walk through Salt River Bay National
Historical Park and Ecological Preserve is the least strenuous.
There's also an excursion to Point Udall, the easternmost point
in U.S. territory; this trip is moderately difficult. A rain-forest
expedition into the Caledonia Valley, home to 200-foot kapok
trees, is the most challenging.
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© 1998 Jerry
Reynolds &
Jackson Publishing
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